| Beriev Be-12 "Mail" by RVHP Models |
| 1/72 Scale resin kit with clear vacuform parts and cast white metal details - Comments and photos by p.w. stantiford |
Here are some in-progress shots of my RVHP Be-12.
This is only my second resin full-kit; The first one was
so bad I never finished it. Most of my resin experience
in comes from working with conversion sets. This is one
of the finest resin kits I have ever seen. The castings
are a work of art. The only pin holes I found were on
the leading edge of a horizontal stabilizer. Surface detail
is as good as any recent kit from Tamiya or Hasegawa.
Fit was better than I expected and only needed filler in a
few places, most notably on the top fuselage seam
between the wing "shoulders". I ran into one setback
during construction - the model was mostly assembled
when one of my cats decided to test fly it while I was at
work. Well, cats will be cats, and it was my fault for
leaving it out.... If I have any complaints at all about
this kit it would be that RVHP should have supplied two
sets of clear parts, especially so, considering the price of
the kit (Currently $140 in USA).
This is only my second resin full-kit; The first one was
so bad I never finished it. Most of my resin experience
in comes from working with conversion sets. This is one
of the finest resin kits I have ever seen. The castings
are a work of art. The only pin holes I found were on
the leading edge of a horizontal stabilizer. Surface detail
is as good as any recent kit from Tamiya or Hasegawa.
Fit was better than I expected and only needed filler in a
few places, most notably on the top fuselage seam
between the wing "shoulders". I ran into one setback
during construction - the model was mostly assembled
when one of my cats decided to test fly it while I was at
work. Well, cats will be cats, and it was my fault for
leaving it out.... If I have any complaints at all about
this kit it would be that RVHP should have supplied two
sets of clear parts, especially so, considering the price of
the kit (Currently $140 in USA).
LEFT: The fit was excellent for a
resin kit. Fuselage halves matched
up near perfectly and the only filling
required along the fuselage seam
was between the wings. Filler was
also needed on the engine nacelles.
Only interior details is a basic
cockpit and a seat under the clear
blister on the fuselage spine. It
shouldn't matter much since not
much will be seen through the small
windows.
I painted the interior light grey and
the seats were done in olive drab.
Instrument panel was painted flat
black and dry brushed with silver.
Other cockpit details were picked
out in silver.
Be careful with the metal landing
gear assembly. Super glue is the
best way to go here, so you won't
have much time to make sure
they're positioned correctly and
level.
resin kit. Fuselage halves matched
up near perfectly and the only filling
required along the fuselage seam
was between the wings. Filler was
also needed on the engine nacelles.
Only interior details is a basic
cockpit and a seat under the clear
blister on the fuselage spine. It
shouldn't matter much since not
much will be seen through the small
windows.
I painted the interior light grey and
the seats were done in olive drab.
Instrument panel was painted flat
black and dry brushed with silver.
Other cockpit details were picked
out in silver.
Be careful with the metal landing
gear assembly. Super glue is the
best way to go here, so you won't
have much time to make sure
they're positioned correctly and
level.
RIGHT: I wish I had drilled the
engine exhausts out. Once
mounted to the fuselage, it cannot
be done.
I'll just have to paint those areas
flat black.
At this point in assembly, I am
attaching small resin details
around the airframe. After, I'll be
attaching the clear parts and
preparing for paint.
I have dry-fitted the clear parts
and fit looks pretty good. Only
white glue should be needed to fill
in any small gaps. We'll know for
sure later...
engine exhausts out. Once
mounted to the fuselage, it cannot
be done.
I'll just have to paint those areas
flat black.
At this point in assembly, I am
attaching small resin details
around the airframe. After, I'll be
attaching the clear parts and
preparing for paint.
I have dry-fitted the clear parts
and fit looks pretty good. Only
white glue should be needed to fill
in any small gaps. We'll know for
sure later...
LEFT: Good view of the Be-12's
spindly main landing gear. At this
point I still have two resin parts
that need to go into each landing
gear well.
The large opening for the clear
nose part is evident here. The
scatch builder may want to add
detail here, but I'm an
"out-of-the-box" kind of guy.
Panel detail is both recessed and
raised where it needs to be and
looks as fine as I've seen on any
model airplane.
spindly main landing gear. At this
point I still have two resin parts
that need to go into each landing
gear well.
The large opening for the clear
nose part is evident here. The
scatch builder may want to add
detail here, but I'm an
"out-of-the-box" kind of guy.
Panel detail is both recessed and
raised where it needs to be and
looks as fine as I've seen on any
model airplane.
LEFT: Closeup of the tail area.
Filler was needed under the
stabilizer and around the MAD
boom/fuselage joint.
Metal tail gear (one piece) and
water rudder are in place.
Filler was needed under the
stabilizer and around the MAD
boom/fuselage joint.
Metal tail gear (one piece) and
water rudder are in place.
| Thanks for looking! The completed model can be seen on the next page by clicking here |
RIGHT: There are no clear parts
for all those small fuselage
windows. I plan on using
MicroScale Kristal Klear for
those.
for all those small fuselage
windows. I plan on using
MicroScale Kristal Klear for
those.
LEFT: The kit contains three clear vacuform parts.
Pictured here are the nose and cockpit parts. The third
part, not shown, is an observation 'blister' on the spine
of the aircraft.
One major thing to look out for here is the thinness of
the plastic on end of the nose part. RVHP added some
resin on the inside to strengthen it up at the very end,
but it's still pretty weak just below the resin
reenforcement. I found this out the hard way while I
was sanding the base of the part smooth. Small areas
buckled under the pressures of sanding and creased
small areas of the part. As I mentioned at the top of
the page, I wish RVHP had included two sets of
vacuformed clear parts because mishaps like this are
very likely to happen.
Once cut out and sanded, fit of these clear parts to the
model aircraft is excellent.
Lots of windows to mask. I do not look forward to
this task, especially for these tiny 1/72 scale windows!
Note that the resin radome is a seperate part that will
be attached to the clear nose. There is a gap there that
will require filler.
Pictured here are the nose and cockpit parts. The third
part, not shown, is an observation 'blister' on the spine
of the aircraft.
One major thing to look out for here is the thinness of
the plastic on end of the nose part. RVHP added some
resin on the inside to strengthen it up at the very end,
but it's still pretty weak just below the resin
reenforcement. I found this out the hard way while I
was sanding the base of the part smooth. Small areas
buckled under the pressures of sanding and creased
small areas of the part. As I mentioned at the top of
the page, I wish RVHP had included two sets of
vacuformed clear parts because mishaps like this are
very likely to happen.
Once cut out and sanded, fit of these clear parts to the
model aircraft is excellent.
Lots of windows to mask. I do not look forward to
this task, especially for these tiny 1/72 scale windows!
Note that the resin radome is a seperate part that will
be attached to the clear nose. There is a gap there that
will require filler.
RIGHT: Propellers consist of six parts
for each one.
for each one.
LEFT: Closeup of the propeller parts.
The round bases on the blades will fit
into recesses on the spinner. I'll have
to engineer some sort of jig to make
sure everything lines up consistantly.
The round bases on the blades will fit
into recesses on the spinner. I'll have
to engineer some sort of jig to make
sure everything lines up consistantly.
RIGHT AND BELOW: I've attached all of
the resin detal parts to the exterior. Clear
parts put in place with carpenter's glue.
She's about ready for a shot of paint!
the resin detal parts to the exterior. Clear
parts put in place with carpenter's glue.
She's about ready for a shot of paint!
ABOVE, LEFT, AND BELOW: I used
Model Master RLM 02 Grey as a primer
and to look for flaws in workmanship. I
found a number of places where extra work
was needed or I left a fingerprint or two.
Back to the sanding shop to fix...
Model Master RLM 02 Grey as a primer
and to look for flaws in workmanship. I
found a number of places where extra work
was needed or I left a fingerprint or two.
Back to the sanding shop to fix...
LEFT: Remember my story above about
areas of the clear nose part buckling when I
was working with it? This picture shows that
area clearly. Originally I tried to fill and
smooth the area with carpenter's glue. The
appearance wasn't great, but it did look better
than if I had just left it alone.
Anyway, while I was making the
workmanship corrections mentioned above,
the same area gave way and the carpenter's
glue fell away re-exposing the original
damage. Bad. I took a few days off to think
about what to do. That area is very thin!
I decided I had little choice other than to take
a risk. I started filling the area in with
gap-filling super glue in thin layers. Once I
was satisfied it was filled I added some more
for good measure. Once dry, I lightly sanded
the area smooth starting with 320 grade
paper. It's a wonder I didn't sand through a
thin spot.
areas of the clear nose part buckling when I
was working with it? This picture shows that
area clearly. Originally I tried to fill and
smooth the area with carpenter's glue. The
appearance wasn't great, but it did look better
than if I had just left it alone.
Anyway, while I was making the
workmanship corrections mentioned above,
the same area gave way and the carpenter's
glue fell away re-exposing the original
damage. Bad. I took a few days off to think
about what to do. That area is very thin!
I decided I had little choice other than to take
a risk. I started filling the area in with
gap-filling super glue in thin layers. Once I
was satisfied it was filled I added some more
for good measure. Once dry, I lightly sanded
the area smooth starting with 320 grade
paper. It's a wonder I didn't sand through a
thin spot.
RIGHT: I was so pleased with my work on fixing the
clear nose that I decided I could improve the
appearance/fit of the clear cockpit part in a similar
manner. In this pic, the nose area thin spots are fixed,
but I still need to smooth it up for painting with 600
grade sandpaper.
clear nose that I decided I could improve the
appearance/fit of the clear cockpit part in a similar
manner. In this pic, the nose area thin spots are fixed,
but I still need to smooth it up for painting with 600
grade sandpaper.
LEFT: A number of fit problems and
flaws in workmanship were discovered
and corrected.
flaws in workmanship were discovered
and corrected.
Problems corrected, and
another coat of gray paint.
another coat of gray paint.
I usually don't pre-shade, but
considering that these amphibians
operated out of water, I thought
the effect might look good on this
model..
considering that these amphibians
operated out of water, I thought
the effect might look good on this
model..
References I have on the
Be-12 show they were painted
various colors at different times
in its service life. I decided to
go with a gray-green that
Be-12's appear to have been
painted in during the Cold war.
The Be-12 at the Monino
museum near Moscow is a
similar color.
Be-12 show they were painted
various colors at different times
in its service life. I decided to
go with a gray-green that
Be-12's appear to have been
painted in during the Cold war.
The Be-12 at the Monino
museum near Moscow is a
similar color.
ABOVE and RIGHT: I mixed the
colors and this looks close enough.
colors and this looks close enough.
BELOW: Propellers assembled and painted.
RIGHT: Painted and decals applied.
The end is in sight!!!
The kit-supplied Red Star decals were
too large. I used some from a 1/48
scale CAM sheet. Also, the Soviet
Navy ensign decals should face the
same way on each side of the fuselage.
The hammer-and-sickle should be
forward. The one you see here is
backwards, while the one on the
opposite side is correct.
The end is in sight!!!
The kit-supplied Red Star decals were
too large. I used some from a 1/48
scale CAM sheet. Also, the Soviet
Navy ensign decals should face the
same way on each side of the fuselage.
The hammer-and-sickle should be
forward. The one you see here is
backwards, while the one on the
opposite side is correct.
REFERENCES USED: Both "Beriev Be-12
Amphibian Aircraft" (left) by Anatoliy
Artemyev and "Aircraft-Amphibian Be-12"
(right) by A. Zablotskiy and A. Salnikov are
excellent references. I got mine through
Linden Hill Imports. As I write this they do
not appear on the Linden Hill website which
either means they're out of print or are
temporarily out of stock. I suggest contacting
Linden Hill for details.
Amphibian Aircraft" (left) by Anatoliy
Artemyev and "Aircraft-Amphibian Be-12"
(right) by A. Zablotskiy and A. Salnikov are
excellent references. I got mine through
Linden Hill Imports. As I write this they do
not appear on the Linden Hill website which
either means they're out of print or are
temporarily out of stock. I suggest contacting
Linden Hill for details.
Almost there! She's nearly complete in this view. I still have minor clean-up, the small windows and details to take care of .